Easter eggs hidden at Bologna this year
Cosmoprof Bologna, is a bit like an Easter eggs hunt, when you know the scale of the event, you know that it requires strategy and hunting ability to find the right gems ;-)
It’s this time of the year again, when a large part of the world flies to Bologna, a little city (of about 400,000 souls, in northern Italy). One may say, this is not good for the carbon footprint on the planet, but it might actually be better to have all these people flying in one centre point to meet each other than to fly to each and everyone’s location to meet and talk business.
Anyway, on another note, we find that this year's event is a great start to the innovation annual circuit in beauty. A lot of trends related to new shapes in formulation, going back to wonder and textures to please the beauty user, and packaging that are also shining with new lights bring sustainability to the next level of luxury.
With over 250,000 expected industry professionals from over 160 countries, Cosmoprof in Bologna remains the biggest event on the beauty planet 55 years after its creation. The massive change happening this year is the return of L’Oréal professionnel with a runway show on Sunday, and the closing of Cosmoprof on Sunday night. Historically the show remained open until Monday evening to allow hairdressers to visit the event - since they usually work on Saturdays - , and for the first time, this will not happen. This is a strategic move from the organiser to focus on its core audience, namely local and international distributors, and core exhibitors needs - brands looking for expansion.
Notable Innovations
The innovations we saw briefly this year included full PCR PP with food contact compliance from Geka, as well as innovation from HCT with mono-material solutions that present innovative and attractive designs, including a PET lipgloss where the design acts as an opening mechanism. Confirming the trend of augmented sustainability, where design and consumer experience comes back at the centre of innovation.
Food grade PCR PP
Geka has released a mascara packaging with up to 95% PCR PP that is food-contact approved for added safety with bulk in contact with formula. This is a world first. In the market it is possible to find PCR PET with food grade approval, since PET can be recycled in a closed-loop system (food closed loop), but it wasn’t existent in the PP stream. Geka has developed a specific partnership with a local recycler in Germany, to secure sourcing for the next 10 years.
One may wonder if it is sustainable and acceptable to take PP stream from the food industry, since using cosmetics formula with it, renders the PP non-food compliant, but in all fairness the quantities used in cosmetics and especially mascara are small, and mascara is probably one of the most wasteful packaging, since it is often times not recyclable, so reducing its impact by using 100% recycled PP makes a lot of sense.
Geka claims to reduce CO2 emissions by 75% compared to similar virgin mascara packs. It offers clean finish and colour thanks to a stringent sorting protocol that allows for clear recycling output. Metallic, pearl, chrome, multi-color effect can be applied to the masterbatch which remains consistent all throughout the product, even at large scale. PCR PP is compliant with European safety standards.
Intuitive lip-gloss mechanism
HCT has developed an interesting and intuitive lip-gloss where the screw is design in a different orientation offering a different opening gesture, while serving as design and screw opening.
Cosmopack Awards
The cosmopack awards have now been announced and here below is our selection of the noteworthy innovations including the FR.Handly Kit, an accessible design by FRpartners, and “OneMore Dual Balm” from Chromavis. (the winners will be announced after the release of our newsletter).
Hair Care Formula
Rescue Me Stick Conditioner - Intercos Spa
Designed as an on-the-go product to travel with, the Rescue Me Stick Conditioner transforms from a solid formula to a silky cream on contact with damp hair, to offer moisturising and conditioning benefits. The stick’s ingredients include two mild, natural surfactants, which allow for the product to be rinsed off for a residue-free finish; a blend of naturally derived structurants, with a mix of natural waxes and fatty alcohols to achieve the solid texture; sodium hyaluronate to preserve hair’s water balance; avocado oil to moisturise; and rice starch to texturize. The packaging, meanwhile, is a fully recyclable 100% mono-material PP stick.
Innovation Technology
ONEMORE Dual Balm - Chromavis
Colour and care combine in this lip formula, which crafts a dual-effect lipstick with a transparent, crystal-like, glossy outer layer and a vivid-toned, nutrient-rich inner core. Both elements of the lip product have highly detailed, faceted surfaces, to create a visually appealing product. On application, the product releases both the colour and care captured within its creamy core and the plumping and hydrating effects offered by the glossy outer shell. Among the ingredients within the balmy core are sodium hyaluronate and botanical oils for deep hydration and nourishment, while the outer shell contains organic mustard sprout extracts for a natural plumping effect. The dual effect is created thanks to Chromavis’ patent-pending C-Full Technology, a double chamber pouring technique. This process allows for the detailed reliefs on both the product’s transparent shell and tinted core, resulting in its striking colour-into-crystal effect.
MakeUp Formula
Cryolight - Omnicos Group
Cryolight is a hybrid powder with creamy, silky, and bouncy consistency, created via Omnicos Group’s patent pending nitrogen-boosted formulation process. The cold temperature of the liquid nitrogen results in the powder’s sensoriality, while using liquid nitrogen also saves energy in production, in contrast to energy-intensive baking processes, thus reducing carbon emissions and energy consumption. The powder contains a mix of emollient esters to offer a silky touch, while its combination of synthetic and natural waxes act as emollients and film-forming agents to provide structure and plasticity to the product. The formulation also encompasses a high concentration of different sized pearlescent pigments for luminosity, and two texturizing powders for a smooth application and blendability.
Packaging: design & materials
FR.Handly Kit - FRpartners SA
This kit exhibits a number of different packaging solutions that brands can employ to make their cosmetic products more accessible to consumers with mobility difficulties. Among the kit’s components is Soft Prehension, a PP container with a soft-touch finish for an ergonomic opening. The container is printed with CyR.U.S. raised symbols, which help those who are visually impaired to understand the product. The Adaptive Sleeve is a brush handle that is sensitive to pressure, making it easy to grab for those with prosthetics or limited finger mobility; Grip & Glow is a silicone or rubber component that enhances the user’s grip, helping with stability and making it easier for those with limited grip to pick up a product; and Infinite Ring is a silicone, rubber, or elastomer accessory designed for single-finger manipulation, with wings for use with the mouth or teeth to aid positioning. The elements of the kit feature a ball-and-socket joint for easy adjustment and modular, interchangeable components that attach to products with magnets.
SkinCare Formula
The Globes - Gummy Soap - Ancorotti Cosmetics
These single-use face cleansing gummies are solid soaps activated when applied to wet skin, transforming into rinse-off foam. Created from 99% natural ingredients, the soaps are presented in two different formulations – the orange gummy is infused with orange blossom floral water and an orange flower scent, while the yellow gummy contains an argan scent, helichrysum flower extract to combat the effects of environmental stress, and ginkgo biloba extract with antioxidant, sebum-regulating, and toning properties. The globes are hot-poured into a clamshell-like packaging, and heat sealed with an aluminium cover that’s designed so the two gummies can be opened on separate occasions. Among their eco-friendly ingredients is a mild, non-ionic surfactant made entirely from renewables; a polysaccharide produced by fermentation used as a film-forming agent; and a jellifying agent and natural polysaccharide for a rich, smooth texture.
Sustainability
Better Paper Roll Pencil - Cosmax
Taking inspiration from childhood coloured pencils, this pencil is captured in mono-material packaging composed of biodegradable paper derived from tree cellulose, with a water-based coating. The paper used is Sirio Rough, an FSC® certified eco-friendly paper produced from biodegradable and recyclable ECF pulp. It does not contain carbon, so it can better resist light, making it suitable for various printing methods. As the packaging is made up of only paper, it can be sharpened by pulling away the string near the pencil’s tip, rather than using a sharpener. As for the pencil itself, it has a rich color payoff and a soft application.
